Saturday, March 25, 2006

Cannon Beach, OR: Fultano's Pizza

Fultano’s is your college-town beer and pizza joint, complete with plastic red-checked table cloths and a video game corner. The walk-up counter is flanked by chalkboards bearing the day’s dinner specials and lunch pizza-by-the-slice combos, and the salad bar sports several different versions of pasta salad.

The staff was polite and attentive – one guy looked especially concerned when the crazy lady sitting on the patio area and her friend carefully picked out every black olive from her salad and returned it to the counter. The counter manager made her a new, different dish and delivered it with apologies and a straight face. I was impressed.

Pizza by the slice for lunch included a couple of standards (cheese or The Big Kahuna – Hawaiian), and a gourmet-inspired Veggie Pesto. It was hard to order slices without seeing them first (they must have been stored in the back) but proved yummy once delivered to our table. Prices for lunch specials were reasonable ($6.25 for 2 slices and a fountain drink). Dinner choices included another vegetarian choice, the “Blue Moon,” with veggies and Gorgonzola. Dinner prices ran $10 – 12 per medium pizza.

The slices at lunch were made on a sourdough crust, with a thick edge folded over a thin layer of sauce. The dinner pizzas had a thinner, crispier crust, baked on a round, wire rack instead of a traditional pizza pan, with toppings all the way to the edge. The toppings tasted fresh and the veggies were well cooked – warm but not soggy.

This is a place where the whole family can pull tables together and basically re-arrange the dining area to serve their needs. Seating is close and cozy and sort-of drifts out the door to the sidewalk area. Good for late-night pizza cravings, and serving a large crowd, with rambunctious kids, affordably.

Rating: Decent food, Laid-back atmosphere, Vegetarian - friendly. Better than Good.

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